A good tool to get sharp pictures under less good lighting conditions is use of a tripod. Combine your tripod with a remote control for the camera. This can be a wired control, but also a remote control without a wire. If you use your finger to press the shutter button method you still have the possibility of movement. With a remote controlled shutter this is not the case. In addition to the wireless method, you can take a little more distance from your camera. So you easier see the result on the LCD screen when this appears.
In some circumstances however, it is practically not possible to work with a tripod. How do you hold your camera can also be essential. To be aware how you hold your camera sometimes means the difference between failed or successful photos.
Slow Shutter Speed
You can ensure that with a relatively slow shutter speed the pictures will be sharp. By pushing yourself or the camera against a wall or pressing the camera on a wall or to a trashcan. If you quickly shoot three pictures one by holding the shutter than the middle picture is often the sharpest.
You should always try to hold the camera with two hands. Two hands are much more stable than one hand. Support the lens with one hand, hold the camera with the other hand. You must also try to keep your camera close to your face and keep it there. The closer you keep your camera to your body, the less chance of moving pictures when your arms move. The denser you can make yourself, the better. Your body is your tripod.
Focus On Wrong Place
Another reason why a photo or the desired part is not sharp is where the camera was/is focused on. The most common example of incorrect focus is when the focus is on the nose. A rule in the model photography (people, animals) is that the eyes are always in focus. People are set to be the first to look at because in the eyes is much to read on the mood of a person.
Many photographers rely on the auto-focus capabilities of the camera and on the whole. Important is to choose a good focal point. The center focus point is the most sensitive. In general, compositions are created with the ‘rule of thirds’ in mind. The main topic is on 1/3 or 2/3 of the image. That means that the central focus is not on the main topic. You can then choose to the center focus point first and then to focus on the eyes. While you hold down the shutter button, to create the final composition and print.
Secured Against Overturning
When you have your camera completely secured against overturning, is the focal point on the correct place. And did you apply all the other precautions mentioned before in terms of shutter speed in eight. Then it may still be that the photo (subtle) is blurred, especially in the foreground and/or background of the photo.
This has to do with the depth of field, the part of the photo that is displayed sharp. The point at which you focus is the sharpest, a part for this point is also sharp. Depending on the focal length of the lens (chosen mm) and the aperture setting is this ‘sharpness area’ larger or smaller. And the conduct to blur faster or does this expire gradually.
If you use a relatively open aperture (low f-values such as f/2.8, f/2, f/ 1.4) then there is a limited depth of field. It is with a large aperture opening additional important to find a good place to focus. The part that is blurred is determined by the point at which you focus. The limited depth of field is sometimes (especially in macro photography) of just a few millimeters which are in sharp focus. When you’re close to your subject than it can shift of a few millimeters. Enough to have a very different part of the subject sharp. Good focus is therefore very important.
Bah, bad weather
There is no bad weather in photography, precisely in the circumstances in which many people pack their stuff and leave, you can take lovely pictures. A blue sky without clouds is boring and adds nothing to a photo. Dark rain clouds with the foreground illuminated by sunlight, dense fog, hard wind whipping the sea, have all the ingredients to shoot a photo with impact.
I am here of course also guilty of, it is nicer to have a moment in bed than go out there without the warranty of beautiful light. Especially on vacation I noticed that it also can be different. It has no meaning throughout the day to remain in the house, I still simply pull out there. However with the use of a tripod and an umbrella it creates a fine possibility to make beautiful pictures. It is only really difficult when the rain enters horizontally towards the lens.
It was terrible weather, hard rain, but if i did not have gone with, raincoat, rain-pant and umbrella and the walk of half an hour i had never had taken this photo:
If it is a gray day, then this is ideal for macro photography of flowers and plants and the true colors of nature. Without the bright light of the sun you can capture more detail and the colors are more real.
Patience also plays a big role, if you observe the weather for a while and trying to estimate when it will clear, then you can still go at the right time, to benefit from a temporary recovery of the weather. It can sometimes clear up for a few seconds, and you should ensure that you’re ready.
Under- or over-exposed pictures
At the time that you see the picture, the light there is good, the face is clearly visible, and there is also sufficient detail in the background. But if you look at it later the photo on the computer has only the background well exposed and the person you wanted to shoot is almost a silhouette. In this case, the camera measured the light on the wrong part of the photo, the camera measured the exposure on the brighter determined background instead of on the face.
The camera has different methods to measure the available light in a scene, the camera can measure if the ambient light is more or less taken into account. In the case of the example of a portrait you can make the best use of the partial metering. This partial measurement measures the middle part of the scene, approximately 9 %.
The partial metering is especially a good choice when the ambient light is darker or lighter than the main topic, as long as your subject itself is not very light or very dark. If the camera does not have a spot meter, then this is often the position at which you can measure the closest to your subject. By now, with the central focus on your subject and to focus the exposure to adjust and then to make a new composition, you get a correct exposure.
The Correct Exposure
Determine the correct exposure is one of the most difficult parts of photography, not under standard conditions, but if the situation is just a bit different, more interesting, as for example in back-lit situations. A camera can see less contrast difference (dynamic range) than the human eye, in situations where there is much contrast difference you will get detail losses, difficult in situations with a large contrast difference as when shooting on a summer’s day.
The photos on the LCD screen are often different than if you’re watching it on your computer at home. It appears that it’s too dark or lighter than expected. How a photo on the LCD screen looks depends to a large extent on the ambient light, but also whether you’re shooting in JPEG or RAW format.
A good tool for the exposure is to use a histogram. This histogram graph is classified from dark to light, the higher the line on the left of the image, the less detail in dark areas. The same applies to the right-hand side, which then applies that there are details lost in light parts, where the danger lures that all parts of the photo do not have enough detail and are displayed in white. A correct histogram does not exist, but try to ensure that there are as many as possible of the histogram left to right and that the lines left and right are as close as possible to the 0.
In many cases the exposure estimates the camera correctly, but sometimes it is necessary to send in to the camera, you’ll need more or less light to fall on the sensor than the camera proposes to get a correct exposure. You’ll need to underexposure (relatively dark photos) a longer shutter speed dial or the diaphragm to open up further to get a +1 or +2 exposure and more detail in the shadows. In a overexposed image you choose a shorter shutter speed than the camera or the diaphragm further indicates a -1 or -2 exposure to allow the light parts to show more detail and not completely white.